OPULENT BEGINNINGS
For generations, families large and small have been making The Greenbrier a special part of their traditions. Nestled in the heart of the picturesque Allegheny Mountains in West Virginia, this National Historic Landmark has been dubbed America’s First Resort. Founded in 1778, it attracted early visitors who sought the purported healing properties of the area’s mineral springs and found peace in the bucolic setting. Before the Civil War, the resort became popular with Southern guests seeking a respite from the heat at home—politicians, diplomats, and lawyers, as well as five sitting presidents, all made the sojourn to this haven with a 2,000-foot elevation. When the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway acquired the property in 1910 (and completed the adjacent rail line), The Greenbrier became the go-to place for society denizens from Newport to Palm Beach. And that historic grandeur continues to lure guests in present day.
TODAY
A deft touch is required to retain the historic sense of place of a resort of this magnitude while still providing the guests of today with all of the modern amenities and accoutrements they expect. The Greenbrier does just that, magnificently. The soaring lobby and high-ceilinged common spaces, as well as all guest rooms and cottages, are resplendent in the floral riot of color that was designer Dorothy Draper’s hallmark.
A backdrop such as this attracts guests who appreciate a bit of formality in their recreation. While there are a few casual dining outlets on site, most restaurants on property see well-dressed guests at meals, with ladies in dresses and men (and boys!) in coat-and-tie. It is a tradition embraced by returning visitors who relish such things.
WHAT TO DO
The beauty of a resort like The Greenbrier is that you can do as much or as little as you wish. The entire stay is dedicated to your own version of ‘leisure.’ Because of this, the destination is ideal for multi-generational travel where everyone can do what they like—at their own speed.
For the active, there are plenty of outdoor activities like croquet, horseback riding, falconry, fly-fishing, world-class golf, whitewater rafting, ice skating, swimming (indoor and out), tennis, bowling, and of course, pickleball. Guests interested in honing their shooting skills—or just trying something new—can visit the resort’s Gun Club for an afternoon of instruction, trap shooting, and skeet. The resort also offers friendly sporting clays competitions.
Craving more adrenaline? Connect with Greenbrier Outfitters for mountain biking, kayaking, an alpine tower climb, an aerial adventure course, bubble soccer, or an e-bike rental. The Mountaineer Experience hits a trifecta with archery, tomahawks, and air rifle shooting. Guests can also take a Segway tour or go off-roading with a Jeep adventure or on a Polaris vehicle.
More leisurely pursuits include movies in the Greenbrier Theatre, spa services, a nightly champagne toast and waltz in the Casino Club, bourbon and wine tastings, carriage rides, or just curling up by the fire with a good book.
Be sure to make time for afternoon tea, served at 4:15 pm sharp in the Upper Lobby. A concert on the grand piano adds to the elegant backdrop. And no visitor should miss a tour of the property’s historic bunker, which remained one our nation’s greatest secrets for 30 years. Conceived of and built under President Eisenhower as a fallout shelter for members of Congress, the facility was fully maintained, operational, and hidden for three decades before it was leaked to a reporter and revealed in 1992. Tours are offered daily, and reservations are required.
WHEN TO GO
With so much to do here, there is no wrong time to visit The Greenbrier. The hardest part might be deciding between extended summer stays that include multi-generational lawn games capped off with a fancy dinner and fireworks or winter holiday escapes complete with sleigh rides and ice skating. And then there are the special-event weekends like the Dorothy Draper Design weekend each March where members from the acclaimed design team host a joyous deep dive into the textile treasures of Dorothy Draper and her protégé Carleton Varney. Next year marks the 100th anniversary of her work, and event organizers—including Dorothy Draper president (and Carleton’s son) Sebastian Varney and interior designer Rudy Saunders—are promising to make this one the best yet. Think floral-arranging classes, private tours of the cottages and suites, workshops, attendee-only dinners, and an exclusive visit to the on-site upholstery shop. Grab a friend, or book this as a mother-daughter experience for the best holiday gift ever.
HOW TO GET THERE
The Greenbrier Resort shuttle offers drop-off and pick-up service from nearby Lewisburg airport (LWB), which connects through Charlotte (CLT). Guests choosing to drive from Birmingham should plan for about
an 8-hour trip.
